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Are your cheeks ready for the summer?... Summer-ize your cheeks!
 (07/08/2008 06:30 AM)
My favorite look in the summer is a tight tan with a tad of highlighted cheeks. How can I get this fun look, you may ask? Well, here are my ideas!

Formulation:
You definitely want to get a bit of sheen on your cheeks. You want the skin to look dewy and young. Ideally, if you have normal to dry skin, I suggest giving cream blush a try. This will give your cheeks color while adding a bit of sheen to catch light. If your skin is oiler, a cream blush most likely won't work. The oil in your skin will breakdown creamier formulations faster and diminish their color effect. I'd suggest a powder version that has a touch of shimmer which will mimic this effect.

Color:
You want something juicy and healthy. Try very 'fruity' shades that might look a bit bright in the package. Use a great apricot, strawberry, or cherry color to make your skin look radiant and lit from within.

How to apply:
Cream blushes are best on moister skins to make the color blend easier with no splotches. While your moisturizer (tinted, perhaps) or foundation is still pliable, use your fingertips or a sponge to dab and circle color onto the apple of your cheeks. Smooth the blush up and back toward your temples. If you apply powder to set your make up, do this after and over the blush. If you're using a powder blush, my tip is to use a really fluffy brush. Swirl color onto the brush and dab and swirl blush on apple of your cheeks, sweeping up and back toward your temples.

A couple shades I love for summer are:

Cream Blush: The Multiple by NARS (can be used on cheeks, eyes and lips) in shade 'South Beach'

Powder Blush w/Shimmer: Cover Girl Cheekers Blush in shade 'Golden Pink'


Brett's Tip:
When I'm working with an actress or model I always have them smile when I apply blush. This brings out the apple of their cheeks and guides me to the perfect, most natural placement for color.

Blush on ladies and as always...

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics


SPF Q & A... Sunscreen 101 by Brett Freedman
 (06/12/2008 05:22 PM)
The heat is on! How much do we love the summer? Growing up in Pittsburgh we would spend 3 full months at the neighborhood pool, soaking up the sun. In the late 70's and early 80's the importance for sun protection was just starting to take root. Does anyone else remember the Coppertone ad with a close up of a woman's face with a line down the center of the page? On the left side her skin was young and glowing. On the right side her skin was weathered, crepe-like and freckled with sun damage. That freaked me out! It was then that I decided to go easier on the sun exposure. I still tanned, just not as deep and dark. I still like to get sun. I joke that it's my only vice. In my quest to preserve my skin while still getting rays I've learned a lot about sunscreen and sunblock. It's the perfect time of year to share this information with you!

Q: What is the difference between sunscreen and sunblock?

A: Sunscreen screens out harmful rays while sunblock blocks them. Pretty simple, right? Think of them as the difference between a sheer curtain and a black out shade, respectively. You can put on a high SPF sunscreen and you will still get a tad bit of sun. It won't block it out completely. Sunblock, on the other hand is like a black out shade. It completely blocks out all rays.

Q: Which formula is best for me?

A: To assess how you want add sun protection to your summer beauty regime is quick and simple. If you're fair and burn easily it's best to stick with a sunblock. If you have a medium to dark skin tone, a sunscreen should work out just fine for you. That being said, there are exceptions: how long will you be in the sun, how much sun do you already have, and how much sun do you want get.

Q: Are there times when sunblock is best?

A: Yes. Say you are walking around a flea market at noon. You would want to use a cream sunblock on all exposed skin. This is mainly to ward off 'farmer tan' lines. If you're wearing a short sleeve shirt you don't want to risk getting a little bit of sun and getting that awful line. My advice is to completely block out all rays if you're in direct sun unless you're in a bathing suit. Also, parts of the body 'grab' sun more readily. We all know shoulders are prone to getting burned, but don't forget the nose, collarbone area and forehead. Physically, they are on 'top' of the body and are front and center for sun exposure. Also, they are thin skinned areas. Your nose, for example will absorb much more sun than the surrounding face. How many times have we seen a gal or guy with the dreaded 'burgundy triangle' nose? Nothing is worse looking. Keep these 'hot spot' areas covered with an extra layer of sunblock.

Q: When is it best to use sunscreen?

A: If you're headed to the beach and have your base tan then sunscreen is great. Choose an SPF that will 'buffer' out the burning rays and keep you bronze and glowing. You definitely don't want to develop a red-tinged tan. Using a shield of sunscreen keeps your healthy glow looking just that. If you are going to lunch with friends and you will be sitting outside in the shade, use a body lotion with SPF added. This is a quick way to keep skin hydrated and also have a layer of protection in one swoop.

Q: My face tends to be oily. What should I be using?

A: I definitely suggest a gel based sunscreen. You won't find a gel sunblock because block is made with titanium dioxide. You know how Lifeguards always have white stuff on their noses? That's a titanium dioxide cream. Sunblock creams have 'watered down' versions of that to reflect and physically block out the sun's rays. For day to day use, an oil free SPF gel works well. If you're going to the pool or beach, I would use an oil free sunblock designed for the face. Apply your sunscreen/sunblock right before you hit the sun and rinse it off when you're heading indoors. As an oily skinned person myself I know the importance of not having something too heavy 'sitting' on my face for too long.

Q: My face is dry. What should I be using?

A: For drier skins the world of sunscreens and blocks is your oyster. Most sun protection is designed to be moisturizing so you're in luck. A lot of times your favorite skin cream will come with some amount of SPF. Easy Breezy!

Q: I have a sunroof and I don't want to miss out on any rays. Do I need to put something on?

A: Sorry, but yes. Sunroofs are great but they lead to that horrible looking 'red face' syndrome. That's where your face (and head) end up being about 2 or 3 shades darker than the rest of your body. Continued exposure will actually make your skin a different 'tone' then the rest of your body. Your face and shoulders will tan with a more reddish hue. Yuk! I say, once again, to 'filter' the burning rays allowing your skin to bronze and skip the 'burgundy' phase. In the summer months, I put a SPF 15 lotion on my left arm before I jump in the car. Have you ever noticed how much darker your left arm gets in the warmer months? Think about how much unprotected sun your left side is getting while sitting in traffic! It's funny but true!

Brett's Tip:

I'm a huge fan of 'spot' sunblocking. If I go running, I'll put a light sunblock on my nose, ears, forehead and upper chest. I do the same thing at the pool or beach. I'll put a sunscreen everywhere, but full on sunblock those areas. My all time favorite little weapon is Clinique's City Block (SPF 25). It's a great little tube to pop in your summer tote, and it's perfect to fully protect those delicate, exposed areas!

Have a great summer!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics


What a fun day at Kalologie Skincare in Studio City!
 (03/01/2008 07:04 PM)


On February 11, 2008, Kellie and crew at Kalologie Skincare in Studio City set me up in the front window for a day of brow shaping and make up tips. Julie, my helper for day was my first little starlet. Julie is a classic example of 'I think my brows are kinda okay'. Though Julie has a reddish tint to her hair, I actually used Blondie pencil on her. She has such a strongly uniform brow shape that she only needed a faint 'shadow' of definition. The light taupe of Blondie was subtle enough to look fresh and natural. My advice is always to tidy your brows every few days. It's easier to pull a few hairs here and there, than a bunch at the end of the week. You'll always look crisp and polished.

I also worked on Amy, who was visiting from Australia. I started by taking away all the strays. Amy has very full brows with coarse, wily hairs. I used Acrylica brow gel to keep those hairs down and in a line. This was a moment that I really loved having my own line! Doubtful another brow gel would have been strong enough to hold down Amy's little speaker wires!

An example of a brow transformation was with Samantha, whose brow situation isn't uncommon with Asian brows. Though her brows are ample and uniform across, there's space between the hairs. The skin that shows through looks a bit pale and gives her beautifully shaped brows a sparse look. After shaping her arches with my Ultra-Tweez, I added a veil of Milk Choco powder to cut the 'neon-y' pale from behind the hairs. The end result was a more tailored look.

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett


VANITYMARK Cosmetics


My Love Letter to M*A*C's EYE KOHL pencil liner in shade 'Teddy'
 (02/23/2008 07:00 PM)

Dear EYE KOHL pencil liner,

I'm a huge fan of a dark brown eye pencil, especially for the day. I like the way it softly gives eyes definition without the harshness of a black. It seems that whenever I'm asked to edit a woman's look for day shots, it's the black eyeliner that's the culprit. Unless you're a stripper working the lunch shift, deep shades of make up for daytime are too harsh.

So, why not switch to a more subtle shade? If you like a very lined look to your eyes and you favor black, why not try something that will still give you that dramatic effect but look softer and younger? Maybe try a pewter or gunmetal tone liner pencil. My suggestion: dark brown. Not just any dark brown, I'm going to turn you on to M*A*C's EYE KOHL wooden eyeliner pencil and 'Teddy' is the perfect shade.

I love the way it has a shimmery texture. It never looks flat or hollow. It deepens the lash line, and with a hint of reflection, it catches light and makes your eyes look more alive. Try this trick with all of your eye pencils. Find your favorite shades with a glistening formula and *POP*… you've instantly revamped your look!

WARNING: don't throw away your black eyeliners. They're perfect for evening and super vibrant looks.

Thanks M*A*C for making everything just so dang pretty with your Teddy EYE KOHL liner pencil.

XOXO

Brett


VANITYMARK Cosmetics


Winter Skincare
 (01/20/2008 09:27 PM)
Okay, so the holidays are over and you've had some time to yourself... yea! This is your time to not only enjoy the cool (and head-scratchingly bad) gifts you've gotten, but it's also that time of the year that you settle in for some of the driest air, and therefore skin, imaginable. I went to do an actress for an event the other day, and her face and body were so parched that the make up literally would have splotched up had I not done some good old fashioned prep work. Here are my tips on how to keep your skin the smoothest and beautifully moist this winter season.

IN THE SHOWER:
Body Wash: Switch to an emollient body wash. Choose something creamy and milky looking. Shower gels, bars and transparent soaps do not count. I really like Dove Body Wash. It's creamy, smells great, and is fantastic for sensitive skin. And as an added bonus, it is incredibly easy to find! It's available at any larger drugstore chain.
Temp: I know it feels really good to take a hotty McHot shower in the colder months... but I urge you to resist this. Too hot of a shower robs your skin of moisture. Take a nice lukewarm water temperature shower instead.
Time: Make it quick. The longer you stay in there the more precious oils you're losing. No need to speed-shower, but definitely don't dawdle.
ON YOUR HAIR:
Shampoo: Like the body, your hair will benefit from more emollient formula products. I like Soy Shampoo by Fresh (available at Sephora). It gets hair beautifully clean but gives a nice kiss of conditioning that won't overpower or weigh your hair down. I would wash the scalp first, using what is left as you move down to the ends. The ends of your hair are the driest and thinnest so they don't need full force shampoo to clean and clarify them.
Conditioner: It's so much about prep and timing with conditioner. First, you have to remove excess water from your hair before applying. Think of your hair as a sponge that's full of water. If you dip a sponge full of water into a bowl of conditioner, how much product do you think it will absorb? Not much, if any. If you squeeze that same sponge out a bit before you do the dip then there will be space for conditioner to enter. Your hair is like that sponge. Too full of water and your favorite conditioner will just slide off. That's not good for your hair, your hairstyle, or your purse! What a waste. My advice is to gently 'wring' out any excess water. For shorter haired gals, it may be a good idea to keep a small hand towel in the shower to pad away that extra water. Apply a small amount of conditioner to the ends of your hair and work your way up. Your ends will be drier and more “thirsty” for moisture, so they should get the lion's share. You'll work your way up to the scalp where you'll need less. This makes a big difference... try it! What is my product suggestion you may ask? I'm sticking with my old school favorite, Finesse. Still the lightest, moisture packed formulation on the market. And, like Dove Body Wash, it is conveniently available at any larger drugstore.
FOR YOUR SKIN:
Exfoliate: Sloughing off dead skin to promote cell turnover is vital. This jump starts the new skin cycle. I'm a huge fan of those little loofah body gloves you can get at The Body Shop. Apply your body wash directly in the palm of your gloved hand and scrub away. Once you get in the habit of these gloves you'll never wash without them again. Get an extra pair for travel... you'll miss them on the road!
Body: After the shower it's all about timing. Should you towel dry completely before applying your body lotion? I'm going to use the sponge analogy again. If you take all the moisture out of a sponge then slather moisturizer on it, what exactly are you preserving? What if you took a very damp sponge and put moisturizer on that? All that dewy water would be trapped beautifully in that sponge, keeping it softer for a much longer period of time. Your skin is like that. You want to apply lotions and/or oils WHILE YOUR SKIN IS VERY DAMP! I know it feels slimy and icky, but I guarantee you it will make a world of difference in the suppleness of your skin. After applying your moisturizer of choice, gently blot your skin dry with your towel and that's it. Note, you have about a minute to start slathering it up! My absolute fave body moisturizers for winter are Lubiderm and Aveeno. Again, remember to apply them when your skin is very damp!
Face: I'll have to give the same advice for timing your application of facial moisturizer as I did for applying your body moisturizer. Don't use a heavy, 'full formulation' facial moisturizer in the morning when you start your day. Save that for evenings/bedtime. I like Dermologica AGE Smart Dynamic Skin Recovery. This leaves skin velvety, and as a bonus, it has SPF30! It's really great stuff! You can find it at Ulta Beauty and online.
Body Butters: The Body Shop makes these super emollient body moisturizers that are just fab. Not only are they heavy duty 'hold that moisture in' helpers, but they come in some fantastically wonderful scents! I'm going to cover the subject of whether or not scented products are a good idea for everyone a little later in this post, so stay tuned. All of the Body Butters have shay butter so they really give your skin a dewy finish. Side note: keep in mind for the summer months that shay butter is a natural sunscreen, so keep that in mind if you use this product while trying to get a little sun. You can find this product at your neighborhood The Body Shop store.
Elbows/feet/hands: Yuck, how much do we hate dry, ashy elbows, cracked feet or scaly hands? Keep them moist and glowy with Neutrogena's Norwegian Formula Hand Cream. It's a good product to have on hand (no pun intended). Apply it liberally and often. Do you want to know a classic fix? Vaseline Petroleum Jelly creams works wonders on dry elbows, feet and hands. Both products are available at larger drugstore chains.
Washing hands: This is a tricky one for me. I wash my hands all day all the time. I use a creamy lotion formula at home and work (yes, I carry my own) when washing up throughout the day. When washing my face at the sink I use a clear, more clarifying hand wash. I always apply to my hands while they are still damp. Again, this holds the moisture in. On days when my skin is very dry I actually apply lotion twice. Once right after washing then again a few minutes later when my hands and the first application of lotion has dried. This makes a huge difference... try it! I like Philosophy's Empowerment Hand Lotion. It's very creamy and has a zip of cooling mint that puts a skip in your step! You can find this product at Sephora.
SCENTS IN LOTION:
I used to love buying really fun fragrance filled lotions. In the winter my nails would split. It was SO painful. In response I'd slather on more of my scented hand cream. I was miserable, and I decided to do a test. What if the fragrance in the products I was using irritated my skin and it wasn't a dryness thing after all? I decided to try, for one week, to use only fragrance free or products with very little fragrance. Voila, it worked! My split nails healed and I've never returned. I now use mainly low to no scented products. I can use the fun stuff from time to time, but not solely. I found, with me, it was mainly the very heavily scented lotions and body washes that I can't tolerate. Those 'Baked Apple', 'Vanilla Cream Pie', and other over the top type products are now out for me. Kindof a bummer, but like I said, I still use them every now and then. I've stopped using them days in a row. If you have split nails or skin irritations maybe this is your problem (and solution!) too. Hmmmm...
FROM THE INSIDE:
Okay, this is going to make so much sense. Drink water! Not coffees. Not sodas. Just clear, classic hydrating water! Think of a house plant. Give it a nice healthy drink and watch it spring to life! Hydrating yourself fills everything out, plumps everything up, and just makes you feel healthier, solid and balanced. You don't have to go crazy counting, but try to do a small 8oz glass 4 times a day. Your other beverages will fill out your needs, but NOTHING beats 100% pure H20 straight up!
So there's my input. I hope you found a nugget in there that you may not have known. Have a great winter and never forget to:

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett


VANITYMARK Cosmetics

*magic Liquid Powder by Prescriptives
 (11/17/2007 02:15 PM)
Ahhh, the fabulous look of dewy, radiant skin! It is hard to find something that makes a woman's face glow more. How can you achieve that look when you are feeling less than "glowy"?! I've been using *magic Liquid Powder by Prescriptives in shade Translucent for years now. I've puffed this powder across almost every face I've done, from Amanda Bynes to Gwyneth Paltrow. Why do I love it so much? A few reasons, but first I'll get into what exactly it is, then you'll understand the way it works. I'll also touch on who this product is best for as well as who should avoid it and why.


What is *magic Liquid Powder?

Well, first off it's made by Prescriptives. I think Prescriptives has such a great line of products, but this one is definitely my fave. *magic Liquid Powder is a light reflecting loose powder and it happens to be Prescriptives best selling product. I can absolutely see why.

What is light reflecting powder?

Light reflecting powder gives your skin a moister, dewier finish. We're all very familiar with matte face powders like Airspun Coty by Coty. That zaps shine and makes skin look very even and porcelain-like. Light reflecting powder is a more modern approach to finished looking skin: think Jennifer Lopez or Charlize Theron. Their faces have a luminous quality. They catch light.

Is it good for my skin?

*magic Liquid Powder is finely milled and is actually 70% water. When you apply to your face it has a moist, cool feel. If you keep the lid tightly closed it will retain this for the life of you product. This is great for drier skins since it promotes moisture. Women with oilier skin will be fine using this product since it's not anything heavy or pore clogging... it's just good old fashioned H20.

How does it make my skin glow?

Tiny light reflecting orbs are milled into the powder. When I say fine, I mean FINE. This is a sign of a really high end product. Less expensive brands will have larger orbs or flakes of metal to reflect light. That ends up looking almost like confetti on the skin. You want a pearlized, opal-like glow, not that glittered up look.

How do I apply?

Use *magic Liquid Powder as you would any other face powder. Apply it to your face with a fluffy brush after you finish putting on your base. Women with uneven skin texture, or skin with fine lines, may want to try 'finishing' the skin with their usual face powder before applying a light dusting of *magic Liquid Powder.

Who is it the best choice for?

Dry skin benefits the most. Since drier skins sometimes lack depth and vibrancy, this powder brings the face alive!

Who is it NOT the best choice for?

Oilier skinned gals tend to have their own light reflecting quality. This powder may push that dewy finish to the limit and appear too moist.

Better for day or evening?

It's gorgeous at night when all is dim and faces are poised to catch some glimmering light. But during the day it'll give you a young, healthy glow that will cause comments for sure!

So, there you have it. If you've never seen, heard of or tried *magic Liquid Powder by Prescriptives, take a second next time you're at your fave department store to check it out. It's for sure a secret weapon of mine and maybe soon it will be in your arsenal as well!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett


VANITYMARK Cosmetics

Why cream blush ROCKS!
 (09/30/2007 07:32 AM)
Ahhh, blush. Now there's a product you can simply throw on that will INSTANTLY make you look:
  1. Healthier: that glow that lets everyone knows you're fit and fab!
  2. Younger: want that slight flush that a baby's cheek has? Blush will do it!
  3. Brighter: it brightens up your face, giving you that 'alive vibe'.
  4. Smarter: OK, maybe I'm pushing it a little here...but you have to admit that using the right shade is pretty brilliant!
As a make up artist here in Hollywood, I always want my actresses to look their absolute best. I achieve this by following these simple principles:
Use cream blush
It gives the skin a dewy, younger look. I like that it's not flat or just sitting on the face. It absorbs into the skin giving it a 'lit from within' look. It's easy to blend so there's a seamlessness that I just love. It tends to look more like a real healthy glow. It closer replicates the look of actually blushing. We forget that that's what we're trying to do with blush, to recreate the first glow of happiness and health.
Avoid cream blush if...
I would say oilier skins have a harder time with cream blushes. The sebum in the face breaks down the subtle formulation of the product. Oilier skin does well with stains. They may be a bit tricky to work with the first time, but like riding a bike, you'll get used to it. I'm a huge fan of stains/tints. Benefit Cosmetics' Benetint is the mother of all stains/tints! It's a universally flattering shade and leaves just the most beautiful finish! Check it out!
Use powder blush
YES! I actually use powder blush, too. Sometimes I use a combination of both. I'll 'stain' the skin with a cream blush then layer a bit of powder on top. I'll do this to insure longer wear. If you're headed down the red carpet or out for a long day of running around, this is a great trick to keep your cheeks looking flawless. Cream blush gives that moist highlight on the apple of the cheek when you smile... that is just so priceless. You can replicate the look with powder blush, but that's and upcoming blog I'll do, so stay tuned!
Choose the right shade
I tend toward juicy, healthy shades. Colors that flatter the skin and colors that most look like the kind of tones that are actually found in the best looking skin. Glowing pinks, apricots, peaches are always great standby's. You really want something to brighten the face. Depending on your skin tones, I will sometimes use a bronzier or more subtle plummy shade. But not often, and usually more for evening. I can't stand mauve or too brown tones. They just 'sit' on the face and tend to actually suck the life out of your skin. This is a HUGE mistake women make. Check your make up bag...is it time to edit. No worries, I'll give you some suggestions of colors in this entry.
So what products do I use?
That is the one question I get all the time. It's never "What does Brett LIKE"?... it's what do I USE. Well, here ya' go, gals:
Stila's Convertible Color in shade 'Petunia'
You're gonna think I'm nuts! Yes, it's bright... but trust me it goes on so sheer and radiant! I've used this on everyone from Kirsten Dunst to Mariah Carey.



NARS' The Multiple in shade 'Orgasm'
A beautiful peachy/pink that looks great on everyone. Added bonus, can be used on eyes, lips and cheeks! I've used this on everyone from Reba McEntire to Vanessa Hudgens.



Almay's Touch-Pad Blush in shade 'Natural'
This may be the easiest to use since it features a spongy pad that holds the pigment... oh, and it's oil free! I've used this on everyone from Catherine Heigel to Sela Ward.



So there you have it in a nutshell, all my favorite cream blushes. If you've never tried them before, why not play with them a bit. I'm confident that after your first try, you'll be getting great feedback!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics


My Love Letter to Revlon's ColorStay Active Light Makeup foundation
 (09/19/2007 06:49 PM)

Dear ColorStay foundation,

I just adore you. I admire your light coverage: it's just enough to really 'polish up' the skin without looking heavy or phony. I can't rave enough about how buildable you are. If some areas of the face need a bit more of a 'hug', I don't worry about adding just a touch more to those spots because you never get cakey or mask-like.

And with SPF 25... that's above and beyond. Thanks for thinking of all the sunlight that finds its way to me when I think I'm safe like when I'm driving in the car, in the office or just sitting by a window. Oh, and how much do I die for your 10 amazing shades??? Who couldn't find one that blends perfectly to their skin tone?

You're moveable, wearable and so easy to find at any large drugstore... and at a price that is always right!

Thanks, ColorStay... I love you!

XOXO

Brett


VANITYMARK Cosmetics


Let's Talk About Foundation...
 (09/09/2007 05:44 PM)
As an LA based make up artist I've come across every type of skin known to man. Young, old, tanned, fair, cosmetically enhanced and everything in between. Woman constantly ask 'What foundation is the best for me'? Whew, that's a toughie to just pop out an answer on. Finding 'just the right' anything takes a ton of just plain old trial and error. Foundation, in my humble opinion, is probably the hardest. So many things to take into consideration. I came up with a little checklist to help you narrow down and pinpoint what you should take into account when you venture out to find 'the perfect foundation'!

Skin type:
The biggie! You probably know by now if your skin is oily, dry or a combination of both. There are so many formulations on the market that your head is probably spinning: foundations with moisturizers, acids, vitamins, etc. That's all fine, but just be sure you're not already getting some of these benefits from the moisturizers and eye creams you use. There is no real need to 'layer' products. It's not really overkill to do it, but I tend towards 'less is more' when dealing with the face.

Brett's Tip:
I will generally use an oil-free foundation on 90% of my clients. It's just 'cleaner'. It's the obvious choice for oilier skinned gals, but I believe that woman with dry skin should get moisture from their skin care regime.
Coverage preference:
I'm not a fan of heavy foundation. Who is? Most women who wear foundation over their entire face are doing so to cover hyper-pigmentation or other skin flaws. Sounds like an easy fix, but why make your forehead pay for the sins of your cheeks!

Brett's Tip:
Get a nice, sheer coverage foundation, apply all over, and THEN assess the acne or pigmentation issues you need to cover. You may find the 'veil' of coverage you get from that simple layer substantially cuts down on the amount of dark or red areas. At this point, you would go in with a small, tight brush and apply a fuller coverage concealer to zap away those spots. This way you aren't loading up on coverage in places you don't need it. Also, by doing a light application all over, you get to really see what 'pops'. Try it, you'll be surprised!
Color Choice:
Whew... so daunting! I could just scream if I see one more pale faced woman walking around. I call them 'living ghosts'. Woman who have a medium skin-toned chest and body, but an ivory face. To the woman making this mistake it's never noticeable until they see a photo of themselves. Yikes! Pasty face floating on a warm, human hued body. How does this happen, and how can one avoid it?

Here's my advice:
  • SPF on face only - The big culprit. Remember if your really protecting your face from the sun you're gonna need to 'amp up' it's color to match the rest of your body.
  • Matching to neck, not breastbone - Your neck is the palest part of your body. If you're matching your base to your neck, baby, you're in trouble! Match it to your breastbone area. This will give a truer match.
  • Heavily pigmented finishing powders - If you have a face powder with titanium in it... stop using! It may look fine in person, but in pictures you'll look dreadful. The titanium will reflect the flash from a camera giving everywhere the powder is applied a flat, white look. Best to use a low pigment or sheerer finishing powder. If you're wearing base you won't need more coverage, trust me.
  • Woman are afraid of healthy looking shades - I have zero idea why this is true... but it is. I've been working with woman for over 15 years in the make up profession and I will tell you that the colors a lot of woman gravitate towards are head scratchers! Ashy foundations that are too light. Muddy, mauve-y blushes and brownish rusty lip colors. YUCK! So unflattering. I think this is a knee jerk reaction to orange-y foundations, too bright blushes and overtly pink lipsticks of the past. These days there are gorgeous choices in warm, face flattering shades that are truer and more subtle. Don't resist letting your foundation boost your skin and give you a youthful, healthy glow.
  • Bad light - A HUGE culprit! Make sure you have good, even light where you apply your make up. If your bathroom has an overhead fixture and that's all, you're gonna have a real problem. Overhead light can make even Charlize Theron look like Herman Munster! Overhead light creates shadows under eyes and give your face an uneven, hollow look. Clear a space for your 'beauty center'. Get a lighted make up mirror and set yourself up to do your face there. You want light coming at you more evenly. This is how you'll be seen by people out in the real world, not with a bulb over your head in the bathroom! I think I feel a whole blog entry on this subject alone!
Shopping Tips:
  • Sample, sample, sample! - When shopping, take advantage of any line, drugstore or department store that offers little take home testers. This way you can take things home to try at your leisure.
  • Be open to all brands - More $$$ doesn't always mean better, so be open to drug and department store products as well. One of my favorite foundations is Neutrogena's Healthy Skin, and believe me, it's very affordable!
  • Ask questions - If you see a gal with a similar skin tone to yours and she's got a nice 'finish' to her skin, ask her what she uses. Who doesn't love to hear that they look great... share your tips and help a sister out! What better way to hone in on something that may work great for you than with a testimonial by a user!
  • Do the scan - If I was a woman in a department store looking for a new foundation, I'd scan the ladies at the counter. Who looks most like what you want to aspire to? Who is in your age range or looks like they really know what they are doing? They say you can't judge a book by it's cover, and that may be very true, but it can sure give you a ton of info! If you are a 45 year old woman who's gotten a peel (or two) and you are looking for a new foundation, maybe the 19 year old girl at the Lancome counter isn't your best choice. It's not her fault. She just won't have the 'hands on' with your special needs. That being said, maybe the best salesperson for you is a man. I've worked at department store make up counters and there is (naturally) some help that is way stronger than others.
Okay, so there is my two cents on how to make the most of your foundation. It's your face, so take your time. Buying base shouldn't be an impulse buy. Roll up your sleeves and find a product that is perfect... FOR YOU!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics


Got Blog?
 (09/03/2007 11:20 AM)

Hey there, my name is Brett Freedman. I'm an LA based make up artist and owner/creator of VANITYMARK Cosmetics. I don't often read blogs and I've never 'blogged' before... until today that is. Now that I've dipped my toes in this world... I'm hooked! So, break a bottle of champagne, cut a ribbon or throw on an extra coat of mascara...here we go!

Patricia Heaton

I've worked with Patty Heaton for 10 years now. It was 1997, I had just moved to LA and had been working with the great celebrity photographer Greg Henry. There was this new show that was heading into its second season called 'Everybody Loves Raymond'. He was shooting the female lead on the show and asked me if I was interested in doing her make up for a small magazine (i.e. small budget!) called Aspire.

Though 'Raymond' was not a runaway hit at the time, I knew it was a critic's favorite and that Patty was quite pretty. The shoot went great, and she and I hit it off... I've worked with her ever since. I didn't do her for the tapings of the show, but instead I did her Emmy appearances, magazine covers, book tour, talk shows appearances, commercials, press junkets, PSA's and whew... and the list goes on!

Patty has a new show coming out this fall, 'Back to You' with Kelsey Grammer on FOX. They play news anchors at a small station in Pittsburgh which just happens to be my home town! I've heard the show is great and I know Patty adores Kelsey and is having a ball.

Okay, so by now you're asking: "Where's the beauty info in this 'beauty blog'"?! As I said, it's my first blog. I'm not sure how much set up is too much! So without further ado, here's the skinny:

For Patty's new role, she wanted to change up her look to separate her new character from the gal she played on 'Raymond'. She decided to go blonde. She had her color done in Beverly Hills at Frederick Fekkai. Wow! What a change! It's so great to mix it up a bit, to see yourself in a new light. I know Patty loved the results, and I definitely had fun editing her make up bag and playing with new colors to compliment this new look. She's a blonde now... time to make it her own!

The Look:

We shot this at photographer Kate Romero's studio in West Hollywood. A simple beauty story that, when I saw the finished result, ended up being one of my favorites we've done together.
Foundation: Neutrogena's Healthy Skin Glow Sheers
I mixed 'Medium to Tan' with 'Bronze Glow'. These are great for giving your face a beautiful finish without the feeling of heavy make up...it's very light but gives just enough coverage.
Blush: Stila's Convertible Color in shade 'Petunia'
How fun are these! I carry every shade with me at all times! I know when you look at them they look crazy bright, but fear not, they aren't. They are like water colors. They go on sheer and make the skin look 'lit from within'.
Brows: VANITYMARK's Ultra-Brow Pencil in shade 'Blondie'
Patty used to be a 'Milk Choco' gal, so I had to pop this new, lighter shade in her purse!
Lip Pencil: MAC's Cremestick Liner in shade 'Creamkiss'
What a fun, warm lip shade. I lined and filled in Patty's lips.
Lip Gloss: Benefit's Her Glossiness in shade 'Didn't Hear it From Me'
A sheer, peachy shade that give a beautiful lift of color. I love Benefit's glosses!
So there's a little glimpse into what I do and how I do it. My fingers are crossed that this entry gave you a little insight. Maybe it brought a new product or idea into your world. Thanks for reading and check back soon for more!

Enjoy Pretty,

Brett

VANITYMARK Cosmetics






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